1 00:00:59,242 --> 00:01:01,209 What's wrong ? 2 00:01:01,277 --> 00:01:04,178 I'm just tired, I guess. 3 00:01:09,019 --> 00:01:12,153 Have you traveled far ? 4 00:01:13,824 --> 00:01:15,790 Yeah. 5 00:01:21,164 --> 00:01:24,065 You're a surfer, aren't you ? 6 00:01:25,836 --> 00:01:28,102 Yeah, I'm a surfer. 7 00:01:28,171 --> 00:01:31,673 I always wanted to try that, but you know, I just-- 8 00:01:31,742 --> 00:01:33,909 It seems like it would be so much fun, you know ? 9 00:01:33,977 --> 00:01:36,878 So healthy. Yeah, it can be. 10 00:01:38,549 --> 00:01:42,116 - Depends. - On what ? 11 00:01:42,185 --> 00:01:44,653 On whether or not you make it your whole life. 12 00:01:44,721 --> 00:01:46,721 Have you ? 13 00:01:50,561 --> 00:01:52,561 I guess. 14 00:01:56,033 --> 00:01:59,534 What would you say if I told you that there's a wave out there, 15 00:01:59,603 --> 00:02:04,272 And by the time it hits this little island off of mexico... 16 00:02:04,340 --> 00:02:07,408 It's gonna be massive ? 17 00:02:07,477 --> 00:02:11,046 And all I can think about is riding it. 18 00:04:41,064 --> 00:04:42,997 So you want to surf ? 19 00:04:43,066 --> 00:04:47,902 And the waves near the town where you live aren't half bad. 20 00:04:47,971 --> 00:04:49,938 And you start to improve. 21 00:04:52,342 --> 00:04:55,043 And then you hear about this wave... 22 00:04:55,112 --> 00:04:57,112 In a faraway country... 23 00:04:57,180 --> 00:04:59,948 With a name you can't even pronounce. 24 00:05:00,683 --> 00:05:02,650 What then ? 25 00:05:04,420 --> 00:05:07,122 How far are you willing to go ? 26 00:05:10,393 --> 00:05:12,961 What sacrifice are you willing to make ? 27 00:05:16,867 --> 00:05:19,500 How good do you really want to be ? 28 00:05:40,857 --> 00:05:46,594 Mm. Ow. Ow ! 29 00:05:46,663 --> 00:05:48,429 Ouch. Man, this hurts. 30 00:06:03,246 --> 00:06:06,147 aw, mickey. You promised. 31 00:06:09,485 --> 00:06:13,254 Mm. So beautiful. 32 00:06:13,323 --> 00:06:15,957 Mickey. So beautiful. 33 00:06:16,026 --> 00:06:19,393 We're dead. We are dead. 34 00:06:21,998 --> 00:06:26,134 It's cool, don't worry about it. I'm just teaching her english. 35 00:06:35,178 --> 00:06:37,912 I've been watching him ride for four days now. 36 00:06:37,981 --> 00:06:41,082 Having chronicled surfing all my life, I'm convinced... 37 00:06:41,151 --> 00:06:43,451 That he's one of those rare athletes... 38 00:06:43,519 --> 00:06:47,421 Whose spirit is as great as their talent. 39 00:06:47,490 --> 00:06:51,592 I'm also convinced that he's preparing himself for something extraordinary, 40 00:06:51,661 --> 00:06:55,696 And if I can do anything to help him, I will. 41 00:07:03,206 --> 00:07:06,341 Hey ! Mickey's at it again. He promised. 42 00:07:06,409 --> 00:07:09,010 Says he's teaching her english or something. 43 00:07:09,079 --> 00:07:11,045 He's teaching her something. 44 00:07:12,482 --> 00:07:14,415 - Ladies first. - ladies first. 45 00:07:16,019 --> 00:07:17,986 How are you ? How are you ? 46 00:07:19,522 --> 00:07:22,190 I am fine. I am fine. 47 00:07:22,259 --> 00:07:26,160 Your eyes are very beautiful. 48 00:07:26,229 --> 00:07:28,763 Your eyes very beautiful. 49 00:07:28,831 --> 00:07:32,267 And you're so very handsome. 50 00:07:32,335 --> 00:07:34,535 You're so very handsome. 51 00:07:34,604 --> 00:07:38,106 And so strong. - And so strong. 52 00:07:38,174 --> 00:07:41,442 Very good. - Very good. 53 00:07:41,511 --> 00:07:44,412 Now, if you really want to learn english... 54 00:07:46,249 --> 00:07:50,584 ♪♪ - you listen to country music. 55 00:07:50,653 --> 00:07:53,754 They tell it like it is. 56 00:07:53,823 --> 00:07:58,659 you give your hand to me. You give your hand to me. 57 00:07:58,728 --> 00:08:01,229 And then you say hello. - You say hello. 58 00:08:01,298 --> 00:08:04,032 ♪ and I can hardly speak ♪ 59 00:08:04,100 --> 00:08:07,768 ♪ my heart is beating so ♪ 60 00:08:07,837 --> 00:08:11,839 ♪ and anyone could tell ♪ 61 00:08:11,908 --> 00:08:15,876 ♪ you think you know me well ♪ 62 00:08:15,946 --> 00:08:19,380 ♪ but you don't know me ♪ 63 00:08:30,793 --> 00:08:33,995 ♪ and longs to kiss your lips ♪ 64 00:08:34,064 --> 00:08:37,098 ♪ and longs to hold you tight ♪♪ 65 00:08:37,167 --> 00:08:41,369 Sounds like your daddy's here. Sounds like your daddy's here. 66 00:08:41,438 --> 00:08:43,838 Yep. - Yep. 67 00:09:06,262 --> 00:09:09,330 I'm really sorry, sir, but I was just teaching her english. 68 00:09:16,439 --> 00:09:18,506 There's a lot of girls out there, mickey. 69 00:09:18,574 --> 00:09:22,843 That's my point exactly. You gotta pick the right one. 70 00:09:22,912 --> 00:09:25,346 You gotta make 'em come to you. 71 00:09:25,415 --> 00:09:29,017 Otherwise, it's like marlin fishing. 72 00:09:29,085 --> 00:09:32,920 - What ? - Marlin fishing, man. 73 00:09:32,989 --> 00:09:35,823 You see a beautiful woman. She's like a big game fish. 74 00:09:35,892 --> 00:09:41,396 If you really want her, you're gonna need a boat, bait, tackle, gasoline. 75 00:09:41,464 --> 00:09:43,464 You gotta get out on the high seas. 76 00:09:43,533 --> 00:09:46,000 And if you get a hookup-- if you get a hookup-- 77 00:09:46,069 --> 00:09:49,170 You gotta drag it all the way back to the boat. 78 00:09:49,239 --> 00:09:53,207 But I have a question for ya: At that point, who's tired ? 79 00:09:53,276 --> 00:09:57,645 - Who, you ? - No, goddamn it, the both of ya ! 80 00:09:57,713 --> 00:10:00,581 Beautiful women, you know what I say to them ? I say, 81 00:10:00,650 --> 00:10:04,585 "you may be a symphony, baby. But I believe in song." 82 00:10:05,821 --> 00:10:09,890 - I-I don't get it. You get it ? - Sometimes. 83 00:10:18,251 --> 00:10:21,952 You all right ? You gonna be all right ? 84 00:10:31,998 --> 00:10:33,964 Yeah, I'm fine. 85 00:10:46,579 --> 00:10:50,515 Hey, english ! Over here. 86 00:10:50,583 --> 00:10:54,118 English. No tv, you understand me ? 87 00:10:54,187 --> 00:10:56,187 No shopping malls. 88 00:10:56,256 --> 00:10:59,323 No tour buses. You hear me, english ? 89 00:10:59,392 --> 00:11:01,392 No fast foods. 90 00:11:03,263 --> 00:11:05,496 Leave us alone ! 91 00:11:10,803 --> 00:11:13,104 ♪ because the nighttime ♪ ♪ night and day ♪ 92 00:11:13,173 --> 00:11:16,807 ♪ ah, is the right time ♪ ♪ night and day ♪ 93 00:11:16,876 --> 00:11:19,910 ♪ to be with the one you love ♪ ♪ night and day ♪♪ 94 00:12:08,394 --> 00:12:10,428 Hey, are they gonna execute us ? 95 00:12:10,497 --> 00:12:13,030 I wasn't even doin' anything ! 96 00:12:15,602 --> 00:12:18,035 Oh, man. I'm gonna have a heart attack. 97 00:12:18,104 --> 00:12:20,070 I'm full on gonna have a heart attack ! 98 00:12:20,140 --> 00:12:22,940 Chin up, kid. High tide raises all ships. 99 00:12:23,009 --> 00:12:27,311 five more hours and we would have been out of here. Now we got nothin' ! 100 00:12:27,380 --> 00:12:30,281 what are you talkin' about ? We got till ten. 101 00:12:30,350 --> 00:12:32,350 we're never gonna make that plane. 102 00:12:32,418 --> 00:12:34,485 The harbor's only a mile away. 103 00:12:34,554 --> 00:12:36,554 We're in jail, mickey. 104 00:12:38,207 --> 00:12:40,525 This ain't about bein' caged, man. 105 00:12:42,262 --> 00:12:48,132 I've seen birds in cages, and you ain't no bird. All right ? 106 00:12:48,201 --> 00:12:51,001 Do you know that birds are the direct descendants of dinosaurs ? 107 00:12:51,070 --> 00:12:54,905 They used to have teeth and shit. Them guys was fast, even the girl ones. 108 00:12:54,974 --> 00:12:58,942 You know what "dinosaur" means ? It's greek, man. 109 00:12:59,011 --> 00:13:02,480 It means, "terrible lizard." think about that. 110 00:13:08,888 --> 00:13:11,155 hey ! That's my board ! What'll we do ? 111 00:13:11,224 --> 00:13:13,591 Run like hell ! 112 00:13:25,971 --> 00:13:28,172 Come on, little girls, don't run home in your underwear ! 113 00:13:28,241 --> 00:13:30,641 Come back here ! 114 00:13:46,859 --> 00:13:48,826 I sense angels at work here, boys. 115 00:13:51,531 --> 00:13:53,598 There's that taxi again ! 116 00:13:58,238 --> 00:14:02,240 Look out ! Hey ! 117 00:14:02,308 --> 00:14:05,142 Charge ! 118 00:14:05,211 --> 00:14:07,911 hey, come on ! 119 00:14:07,980 --> 00:14:10,147 Pull me up ! 120 00:14:26,499 --> 00:14:29,900 look at that stinkin' boat. It's the most beautiful thing I've ever seen. 121 00:14:29,969 --> 00:14:31,902 It's an epiphany. Know what an epiphany is ? 122 00:14:31,971 --> 00:14:36,039 not now, mickey. Can't you see ? We're in trouble ! 123 00:14:44,384 --> 00:14:48,486 No tv ! No diet colas ! 124 00:14:48,554 --> 00:14:51,955 No shopping malls ! Do you hear me, cue ball ? 125 00:14:58,531 --> 00:15:00,831 hey ! Hands off ! 126 00:15:00,900 --> 00:15:03,668 I said, leave our women alone ! 127 00:16:16,476 --> 00:16:19,309 Come on, get over here ! This thing's gonna take off ! 128 00:16:26,853 --> 00:16:28,886 every sport has its own mythology. 129 00:16:30,590 --> 00:16:32,823 Its legends: 130 00:16:32,892 --> 00:16:34,925 Joe louis, muhammad ali, 131 00:16:34,994 --> 00:16:37,361 Over here. Come on in ! Mickey mantle, babe ruth, 132 00:16:37,430 --> 00:16:39,296 Michael jordan. 133 00:16:39,365 --> 00:16:42,065 Faces you see on television. 134 00:16:43,636 --> 00:16:46,704 Surfing has its own mythology too. 135 00:16:46,773 --> 00:16:49,573 Most of it based on what you never see. 136 00:16:49,642 --> 00:16:51,776 Hang on, mickey. Hang in there, buddy. 137 00:16:51,844 --> 00:16:54,978 stories of great rides, told over and over again... 138 00:16:55,047 --> 00:16:58,783 Of unimaginable waves in obscure, faraway places. 139 00:16:58,851 --> 00:17:01,919 These are the people who seek these moments out, 140 00:17:01,987 --> 00:17:06,924 Traveling like spirits from country to country. 141 00:17:06,992 --> 00:17:09,427 - you okay ? Good, get in. - I'm okay. 142 00:17:41,961 --> 00:17:44,127 ♪ ain't no rain or sunshine ♪ 143 00:17:44,196 --> 00:17:48,499 ♪ I'm glory bound get your hands up now ♪ 144 00:17:48,568 --> 00:17:53,136 ♪ get glory bound get your hands on now ♪ 145 00:17:53,205 --> 00:17:57,174 ♪ get glory bound get your hands on now ♪ 146 00:17:58,678 --> 00:18:02,980 ♪ a song could do it a song could do it, do it ♪ 147 00:18:03,048 --> 00:18:08,185 ♪ glory bound get your hands up now ♪ 148 00:18:08,253 --> 00:18:13,123 ♪ ain't no foolin' ain't no foolin' come on around ♪ 149 00:18:13,192 --> 00:18:16,861 ♪ ain't no foolin ain't no foolin' come on around ♪ 150 00:18:16,929 --> 00:18:21,231 ♪ get your hands up now singin' ♪ 151 00:18:43,990 --> 00:18:46,757 That son of a bitch. I'll tell you about that son of a bitch. 152 00:18:46,826 --> 00:18:49,660 Before enlightenment, chop wood, carry water. 153 00:18:49,729 --> 00:18:54,297 After enlightenment, chop wood, carry water. 154 00:18:54,366 --> 00:18:56,767 Kissed by nature. Not a bad guy to have around... 155 00:18:56,836 --> 00:18:59,403 When your back's up against a wall, either. 156 00:18:59,471 --> 00:19:03,841 I like you, mickey. You're a good lad. 157 00:19:03,910 --> 00:19:07,210 Well, thank you, captain. That's a very nice thing of you to say. 158 00:19:09,314 --> 00:19:11,549 Straight flush. 159 00:19:11,617 --> 00:19:14,518 I sure hope this doesn't screw things up between us. 160 00:19:17,757 --> 00:19:20,457 ♪ glory bound get your hands on now ♪ 161 00:19:20,526 --> 00:19:24,127 - Hey, keoni ! Happy birthday. - Thanks. 162 00:19:24,196 --> 00:19:26,229 Ah, it's a good life. 163 00:19:26,298 --> 00:19:30,868 ♪ gettin' glory bound get your hands on now ♪ 164 00:19:30,937 --> 00:19:35,539 ♪ song could do it a song could do it, do it ♪ 165 00:19:35,608 --> 00:19:40,277 ♪ glory bound get your hands up now ♪ 166 00:19:40,345 --> 00:19:45,382 ♪ ain't no foolin' ain't no foolin' come on around ♪ 167 00:19:45,451 --> 00:19:49,453 ♪ ain't no foolin' ain't no foolin' come on around ♪♪ 168 00:19:58,230 --> 00:20:01,632 This isn't just a skateboard ramp, all right ? 169 00:20:01,701 --> 00:20:05,736 We-- we build temples to adrenaline. 170 00:20:05,805 --> 00:20:08,438 This is like chinese architecture, you know ? 171 00:20:08,507 --> 00:20:12,109 'cause they didn't build to the size of the human body. 172 00:20:12,177 --> 00:20:14,912 They built temples to the size of the human spirit. 173 00:20:14,981 --> 00:20:18,916 ♪ I add some pain I became your satellite ♪ 174 00:20:18,985 --> 00:20:21,518 ♪ got to get it all right ♪ 175 00:20:21,587 --> 00:20:24,454 ♪ psyched, I know a man called sylvester ♪ 176 00:20:24,523 --> 00:20:27,457 ♪ have to wear a bulletproof vest, y'all ♪ 177 00:20:27,526 --> 00:20:30,494 ♪ no kinda way no kinda way at all ♪ 178 00:20:30,562 --> 00:20:33,964 ♪ music myth children learn ♪ 179 00:20:34,033 --> 00:20:36,366 ♪ ride on ♪ ♪ ride on ♪ 180 00:20:36,435 --> 00:20:38,902 ♪ into the foam ♪ ♪ into the foam ♪ 181 00:20:41,473 --> 00:20:47,077 ♪ ride on into the foam ♪ ♪ hey ♪ 182 00:21:19,712 --> 00:21:22,179 ♪ ride on ♪♪ 183 00:21:52,961 --> 00:21:56,663 You know where waves come from ? 184 00:21:56,732 --> 00:21:58,865 Imagine you're a giant... 185 00:21:58,934 --> 00:22:02,603 Standing in the middle of the bay of alaska. 186 00:22:02,671 --> 00:22:04,638 You drop a boulder in the water. 187 00:22:07,209 --> 00:22:09,976 And the rings fan out. 188 00:22:10,045 --> 00:22:14,047 The swells keep going until something gets in their way: 189 00:22:14,116 --> 00:22:18,785 An island, a continent, 190 00:22:18,854 --> 00:22:24,724 A reef, something that forces them to peak... 191 00:22:24,793 --> 00:22:28,462 And break... And roll. 192 00:22:33,135 --> 00:22:35,169 That make sense to you ? 193 00:22:37,173 --> 00:22:39,072 Probably not. 194 00:22:39,141 --> 00:22:41,841 If you understood what I was saying, I probably wouldn't be saying it. 195 00:22:45,581 --> 00:22:47,747 Say a big swell hits Hawaii, 196 00:22:47,816 --> 00:22:51,185 And you ride one of those huge waves there. 197 00:22:51,253 --> 00:22:55,289 The wave folds back together on the other side of the island, 198 00:22:57,326 --> 00:22:59,493 And back out across the ocean-- 199 00:22:59,562 --> 00:23:03,797 Like these rings-- to wherever it needs to go. 200 00:23:06,535 --> 00:23:09,769 Then all you would need to do to ride it again... 201 00:23:09,838 --> 00:23:12,472 Is find out where it's headed next-- 202 00:23:12,541 --> 00:23:14,741 To beat it there... 203 00:23:14,810 --> 00:23:16,810 However you can. 204 00:23:19,415 --> 00:23:21,348 It's what I've been doing. 205 00:23:21,417 --> 00:23:24,017 I'm trying to figure it out. 206 00:23:24,086 --> 00:23:27,621 Why is it, when the waves are just right, 207 00:23:27,690 --> 00:23:30,190 When it's big enough and hollow enough, 208 00:23:30,259 --> 00:23:33,327 And I'm inside of it, 209 00:23:33,395 --> 00:23:37,864 Everything-- whatever I'm doing, 210 00:23:37,933 --> 00:23:40,434 Why I'm doin' it-- 211 00:23:40,502 --> 00:23:44,238 In that moment it all makes sense ? 212 00:23:47,543 --> 00:23:52,679 Most everybody wants something else from it. 213 00:23:52,748 --> 00:23:56,750 I'm afraid if I ask for more, it'll all disappear. 214 00:24:20,442 --> 00:24:22,576 Hey, I'd be careful if I were you. 215 00:24:22,645 --> 00:24:24,911 I know you're the captain's daughter and all. 216 00:24:24,980 --> 00:24:27,547 We just got into a bunch of trouble because of a woman. 217 00:24:27,616 --> 00:24:31,251 - Scared me to death. - You're very young. 218 00:24:32,788 --> 00:24:35,989 Yeah. I am young. 219 00:24:40,862 --> 00:24:43,129 Where's your home ? I live with my friends. 220 00:24:43,198 --> 00:24:45,432 Wherever the surf's good. 221 00:24:45,501 --> 00:24:47,734 You know mickey ? 222 00:24:47,803 --> 00:24:50,537 He used to be number two in the world. 223 00:24:50,606 --> 00:24:52,872 Pro tour and everything. 224 00:24:52,941 --> 00:24:54,974 Could have been number one, but-- 225 00:24:55,043 --> 00:24:59,780 I don't know. See him ? He's the best in the world. 226 00:24:59,848 --> 00:25:03,684 That's what mickey says. That's what everybody says. 227 00:25:03,752 --> 00:25:06,620 Won't compete on the tour, though. Don't know why. 228 00:25:06,689 --> 00:25:10,256 Guess he doesn't like hotel rooms or something like that. 229 00:25:10,326 --> 00:25:12,459 But... He's a hot surfer. 230 00:25:12,528 --> 00:25:14,461 I guess that's all that matters. 231 00:25:14,530 --> 00:25:18,298 When I'm old enough, I'm going on that tour... 232 00:25:18,367 --> 00:25:20,300 And cashing in, making a million bucks... 233 00:25:20,369 --> 00:25:23,337 And buyin' my mom a house and fixin' her teeth. 234 00:25:23,405 --> 00:25:26,005 'cause everybody's got to have beautiful teeth. 235 00:25:26,074 --> 00:25:28,074 Even moms. 236 00:25:29,845 --> 00:25:31,845 Do you know that salt water... 237 00:25:31,913 --> 00:25:33,880 Is the most closely related to human blood ? 238 00:25:33,949 --> 00:25:36,817 And you know what that reminds me of ? Our own essence, gentlemen. 239 00:25:48,764 --> 00:25:51,331 Lookin' sharp. Lookin' sharp. 240 00:26:42,300 --> 00:26:44,267 She wants to go with ya. 241 00:26:45,904 --> 00:26:48,605 When my wife was alive, 242 00:26:48,674 --> 00:26:51,408 We found her on the streets of rio as a child. 243 00:26:51,477 --> 00:26:53,710 I brought her on board to save her life. 244 00:26:57,048 --> 00:27:01,317 She recognizes herself in ya. Same eyes. 245 00:27:01,387 --> 00:27:05,922 Same heart. Without lies. 246 00:27:05,991 --> 00:27:08,892 Takin' only what you need. 247 00:27:08,960 --> 00:27:11,227 Givin' only what you can. 248 00:27:11,296 --> 00:27:15,131 She feels safe with ya, 249 00:27:15,200 --> 00:27:19,770 Although she knows she'll never stay with ya forever. 250 00:28:12,858 --> 00:28:17,193 Kick his ass ! Go to him, go to him. 251 00:28:20,599 --> 00:28:24,400 no, no. Go on, mickey. Take this hippie. 252 00:28:24,470 --> 00:28:27,003 Whaddya mean ? I got him right where I want him ! 253 00:28:27,072 --> 00:28:29,639 I got this fuckin' guy right where I want him. 254 00:28:29,708 --> 00:28:32,175 Kick his ass ! 255 00:28:43,522 --> 00:28:46,656 four and 0, four and 0. Come on ! 256 00:28:46,725 --> 00:28:49,258 How much we bet ? - All of it. 257 00:28:49,327 --> 00:28:51,561 You lose, we don't eat. 258 00:28:53,231 --> 00:28:55,532 I'm gonna kick your butt. 259 00:28:58,704 --> 00:29:01,838 A little hot sauce'll fix this guy. The old caliente. 260 00:29:09,681 --> 00:29:11,648 Come on, mickey. Now ! 261 00:29:15,153 --> 00:29:17,654 You enjoying your visit to bali ? 262 00:29:17,723 --> 00:29:21,190 Jet lag's got me down a bit, but I'll get used to it. 263 00:30:01,099 --> 00:30:04,267 ♪ baby, please ♪ 264 00:30:04,335 --> 00:30:07,704 ♪ baby, please set a day ♪ 265 00:30:10,375 --> 00:30:13,610 ♪ baby, please ♪ 266 00:30:13,679 --> 00:30:17,180 ♪ baby, please set a day ♪ 267 00:30:19,517 --> 00:30:22,185 ♪ please don't say tomorrow ♪ 268 00:30:22,253 --> 00:30:24,520 Soon as my friends and I get it together... 269 00:30:24,590 --> 00:30:27,523 And all these people move out of the way, we're gonna move the car. 270 00:30:31,730 --> 00:30:35,865 Yeah, if I understood a word you said, it would be helpful, but obviously I don't. 271 00:30:35,934 --> 00:30:39,069 Wyatt, my man ! Hey, nice to see you, man. How you been ? 272 00:30:39,137 --> 00:30:41,605 no problem. 273 00:30:41,673 --> 00:30:44,641 these guys are friends of mine. 274 00:30:44,710 --> 00:30:47,777 Mab. - Hey, domo, man. 275 00:30:47,846 --> 00:30:49,813 How's it, man ? - Hey ! 276 00:30:49,881 --> 00:30:52,148 Good to see ya. What's happening, rush ? 277 00:30:57,055 --> 00:30:59,889 Rush ! Brian ! Unreal, man. Good to see ya. 278 00:30:59,958 --> 00:31:01,925 Long time. Wow. 279 00:31:06,564 --> 00:31:08,965 ♪ baby, please ♪ gotta get back in shape. 280 00:31:09,034 --> 00:31:11,001 It's been a long summer. ♪ baby, please set a day ♪♪ 281 00:31:11,069 --> 00:31:16,673 - I believe these belong to you. - Keep them. You never know when you might need them. 282 00:31:17,909 --> 00:31:21,678 - Who are you ? - Just a fan. 283 00:31:21,747 --> 00:31:25,949 What's up, darrick ? I was hoping I'd get here in time to train with you guys. 284 00:31:26,018 --> 00:31:28,118 there are only a handful of surfers in the world... 285 00:31:28,186 --> 00:31:32,388 With the courage and skill to ride really big waves. 286 00:31:32,457 --> 00:31:34,924 And here, in a marketplace in bali, 287 00:31:34,993 --> 00:31:37,326 On the other side of the world, 288 00:31:37,395 --> 00:31:39,829 He was about to become one of them. 289 00:31:39,898 --> 00:31:42,065 some mornings, when I wake up, 290 00:31:42,134 --> 00:31:45,168 Before my first cup of coffee, i look in the mirror. 291 00:31:45,236 --> 00:31:48,171 I think to myself, is today the last day I'm gonna be alive ? 292 00:31:48,239 --> 00:31:50,940 'cause you never know when you're gonna go. 293 00:31:51,009 --> 00:31:54,077 When you come out of that wave, if something goes wrong, 294 00:31:54,146 --> 00:31:56,112 The jet ski is your only salvation. 295 00:31:56,181 --> 00:31:59,816 Jet skis, tow ropes. You guys got equipment on the brain. 296 00:31:59,885 --> 00:32:01,851 I'm comin' to Hawaii this winter, and I'm gonna paddle... 297 00:32:01,920 --> 00:32:04,821 Into one of those 40-foot sons of bitches with my bare hands. 298 00:32:04,890 --> 00:32:07,891 What are you talking about, mickey ? There's no way you can paddle in. It's just too big. 299 00:32:07,959 --> 00:32:10,493 - It's just a wave, man. - It's too fast. 300 00:32:10,562 --> 00:32:14,430 - That is horseshit ! It's just a wave. - You can't paddle 35 m.P.H. 301 00:32:14,499 --> 00:32:17,300 It's just a wave, man. A big mother of a wave, yes. 302 00:32:17,368 --> 00:32:21,270 But it's just a wave ! You gotta be in the right place at the right time ! 303 00:32:23,208 --> 00:32:25,141 Dream on. 304 00:32:25,210 --> 00:32:28,044 Then why don't you tow me in ? You, no problem. 305 00:32:28,113 --> 00:32:30,346 For him ? 306 00:32:30,415 --> 00:32:32,849 No way. 307 00:32:32,918 --> 00:32:35,418 - And just why the hell not ? - because, Mickey, you're crazy. 308 00:32:35,486 --> 00:32:38,088 - Everybody knows that. - Well, thank you, keoni. 309 00:32:38,156 --> 00:32:40,156 I love you too. 310 00:32:40,225 --> 00:32:42,491 But I will tell you three guys one thing. 311 00:32:42,560 --> 00:32:44,660 For us, the partying's over. 312 00:32:44,730 --> 00:32:48,664 Starting tomorrow, we train all day, every day. 313 00:32:48,734 --> 00:32:51,300 That's reality. 314 00:33:01,246 --> 00:33:03,613 ♪ all around the world ♪ 315 00:33:03,681 --> 00:33:06,116 Two... Three ! 316 00:33:06,184 --> 00:33:09,786 ♪ no one understands me no one knows what I'm tryin' to say ♪ 317 00:33:12,758 --> 00:33:16,226 ♪ everywhere I go no one understands me ♪ 318 00:33:16,294 --> 00:33:18,361 ♪ they look at me when I talk to them ♪ 319 00:33:18,429 --> 00:33:20,263 ♪ and they scratch their heads ♪ 320 00:33:20,331 --> 00:33:23,499 ♪ they go what's he tryin' to say ♪ 321 00:33:23,568 --> 00:33:28,905 ♪ oh, but you you speak my language ♪ 322 00:33:31,810 --> 00:33:36,345 ♪ but you you speak my language ♪ 323 00:33:36,414 --> 00:33:39,515 ♪ yeah ♪ ♪ yeah ♪♪ 324 00:33:41,686 --> 00:33:45,388 there are two types of surfers that we have to be concerned with... 325 00:33:45,456 --> 00:33:48,057 In surfing waves that actually kill you. 326 00:33:48,126 --> 00:33:50,593 One is gung ho. 327 00:33:50,662 --> 00:33:52,829 This guy does not consider the risk. 328 00:33:52,898 --> 00:33:55,131 The other guy is gun shy. 329 00:33:55,200 --> 00:33:57,967 He does not want to accept the risk. 330 00:33:58,036 --> 00:34:01,304 In this cage right here, gun shy and gung ho, 331 00:34:01,372 --> 00:34:03,239 One focuses on his abilities, 332 00:34:03,308 --> 00:34:05,741 And the other focuses on his limitation. 333 00:34:05,811 --> 00:34:09,045 Pete, what is the worst-case scenario you can think of ? 334 00:34:10,682 --> 00:34:14,851 The worst-case scenario I can see, if someone goes down on a big wave, 335 00:34:14,920 --> 00:34:18,154 And gets held under or maybe shoved into a cave. 336 00:34:18,223 --> 00:34:22,025 When the rescue team goes in to get him, they can't find him. 337 00:34:23,661 --> 00:34:27,096 rush, what is the worst-case scenario in this extreme surf ? 338 00:34:27,165 --> 00:34:30,033 I think, if you let go of the rope too soon, 339 00:34:30,101 --> 00:34:33,336 And you fade to the bottom of the pit with no speed... 340 00:34:33,404 --> 00:34:35,604 And the wave just comes from behind and takes you out. 341 00:34:35,673 --> 00:34:39,175 Gobbles you up. 342 00:34:39,244 --> 00:34:42,312 Shane. 343 00:34:42,380 --> 00:34:44,547 I think the worst-case scenario would be... 344 00:34:44,615 --> 00:34:47,183 To get sucked over the falls on a really, really big wave, 345 00:34:47,252 --> 00:34:51,620 And lose all your air on impact and get sucked down really far; 346 00:34:51,689 --> 00:34:56,559 Like, 30 or 40 feet deep, you know, and you're getting darker and darker, 347 00:34:58,029 --> 00:35:01,264 And all the clouds surrounding you, 348 00:35:01,333 --> 00:35:03,199 Like you're just about ready to black out... 349 00:35:03,268 --> 00:35:05,268 And it's really loud and dark. 350 00:35:06,804 --> 00:35:10,874 I think that would be a really-- like a really bad scenario. 351 00:35:20,318 --> 00:35:22,886 - how long have you lived here ? - forever. 352 00:35:22,954 --> 00:35:27,790 Came here for the surf. Couldn't see leaving. 353 00:35:27,859 --> 00:35:31,861 I travel. But I always come back. 354 00:35:31,930 --> 00:35:35,431 You a writer ? - Yup. 355 00:35:35,500 --> 00:35:38,768 - Got a wife ? - Mm-hmm. 356 00:35:38,836 --> 00:35:40,803 Kids ? - Yeah, three. 357 00:35:40,872 --> 00:35:43,039 Girls. - They surf ? 358 00:35:43,108 --> 00:35:45,741 Of course. 359 00:36:56,681 --> 00:36:59,048 The navy's got these things called "rebreathers." 360 00:36:59,117 --> 00:37:03,786 Put it in your mouth, and it pulls all the oxygen right out of the water. 361 00:37:03,855 --> 00:37:07,723 Won't be long till we stay down indefinitely. 362 00:37:09,194 --> 00:37:13,129 Rebreathers, my ass. Guys sound like a bunch of astronauts. 363 00:37:13,198 --> 00:37:16,499 Here's the news: You guys don't tow me in, I'm gonna paddle in. 364 00:37:16,567 --> 00:37:19,935 You don't think I know what I'm doing ? I was number two in the world. 365 00:37:20,005 --> 00:37:23,172 Full on, mickey, number two, man. Full on ! 366 00:37:23,241 --> 00:37:25,875 That was eight years ago. Eight long years, bro. 367 00:37:25,943 --> 00:37:29,178 Eight years ? eight years, eight years, eight years ! 368 00:37:29,247 --> 00:37:32,181 Eight years, eight years-- eight years, my ass ! 369 00:37:32,250 --> 00:37:34,683 eight years ! 370 00:37:51,969 --> 00:37:54,037 the other thing that we have to also understand... 371 00:37:54,105 --> 00:37:57,407 Is that we can augment our own abilities... 372 00:37:57,475 --> 00:37:59,775 Through the technology that we have. 373 00:37:59,844 --> 00:38:02,978 But technology isn't everything; you need the speed, the strength, 374 00:38:03,048 --> 00:38:05,381 To handle those kind of poundings. 375 00:38:05,450 --> 00:38:07,417 You need to be as quick and agile to fly, 376 00:38:07,485 --> 00:38:11,354 And you need to be as flexible as you can be to reduce injury. 377 00:38:25,570 --> 00:38:28,171 As we all know, when we surf big waves, 378 00:38:28,239 --> 00:38:30,739 You can be held under for more than one wave. 379 00:38:30,808 --> 00:38:34,177 You can be held under for a two-wave hold down. 380 00:38:34,245 --> 00:38:36,912 You could even be held under for three waves. 381 00:38:39,650 --> 00:38:43,652 We understand the risk that's involved. We know exactly what we're up against. 382 00:38:43,721 --> 00:38:48,157 We know exactly what our bodies are able to do. 383 00:38:59,137 --> 00:39:02,771 Practice extreme safety... 384 00:39:02,840 --> 00:39:05,274 When we're doing extreme things. 385 00:39:09,780 --> 00:39:13,516 technology is taking surfing into another dimension, 386 00:39:13,585 --> 00:39:16,819 Allowing a rider to match the speed of a 50-foot wave, 387 00:39:16,887 --> 00:39:19,989 Traveling at 35 miles per hour. 388 00:39:20,057 --> 00:39:23,826 But the question is, at what price ? 389 00:39:23,894 --> 00:39:27,330 Will only the most skilled stand a chance to survive ? 390 00:39:27,398 --> 00:39:29,932 To ride waves this big... 391 00:39:30,001 --> 00:39:31,967 Is to put yourself... 392 00:39:32,036 --> 00:39:35,104 In god's hands. 393 00:40:19,284 --> 00:40:21,217 What's the matter ? You all right ? 394 00:40:21,286 --> 00:40:23,319 side pain. 395 00:40:23,388 --> 00:40:25,354 Can't breathe. What's up ? 396 00:40:27,225 --> 00:40:30,526 All right, keoni. What is it ? Take a deep breath. 397 00:40:30,595 --> 00:40:33,262 Breathe. Relax. 398 00:40:33,331 --> 00:40:36,865 Relax. Okay, let's walk him home. Get him up. 399 00:41:05,963 --> 00:41:08,030 he's burnin' up. 400 00:41:13,804 --> 00:41:16,805 Maybe malaria. 401 00:41:16,874 --> 00:41:19,742 I'll be fine. 402 00:41:19,810 --> 00:41:22,511 Hey, no matter what, no hospitals, okay ? 403 00:41:22,580 --> 00:41:24,580 'cause I hate doctors. 404 00:41:27,252 --> 00:41:29,151 One time, my mom... 405 00:41:29,220 --> 00:41:32,521 Had this skin disease. 406 00:41:32,590 --> 00:41:35,958 It got really infected, and we had to take her to the hospital. 407 00:41:38,730 --> 00:41:42,431 Stupid doctor gave her all the wrong things. 408 00:41:42,500 --> 00:41:46,201 ruined her teeth. 409 00:41:46,271 --> 00:41:49,238 Ruined her hair. 410 00:41:49,307 --> 00:41:53,776 She made her look all old. 411 00:41:53,844 --> 00:41:57,079 My dad freaked. 412 00:41:57,148 --> 00:42:00,316 Drove his truck right through the doc's living room. 413 00:42:02,019 --> 00:42:05,288 right through the picture window. 414 00:42:11,396 --> 00:42:14,563 You'll be okay. You're strong. 415 00:42:17,168 --> 00:42:19,134 Strongest man on earth. 416 00:42:45,596 --> 00:42:47,996 - what is this place ? - my home. 417 00:42:48,065 --> 00:42:51,467 there's this rock concert once a year. 418 00:42:51,536 --> 00:42:54,870 We get invaded for three days, and then they'll all disappear. 419 00:43:08,586 --> 00:43:11,220 Daddy ! - Daddy ! 420 00:43:11,288 --> 00:43:13,356 Daddy ! Daddy, daddy ! 421 00:43:13,424 --> 00:43:15,190 Daddy ! - Daddy ! 422 00:43:15,259 --> 00:43:18,761 Hello, girls. Hi, daddy. Hi, daddy. 423 00:43:20,765 --> 00:43:22,765 Hi ! 424 00:43:24,702 --> 00:43:28,103 Look how big you are. Oh, god, I missed you. 425 00:43:31,208 --> 00:43:33,175 Wyatt ! 426 00:43:57,735 --> 00:44:00,102 It's not like I'm dyin' or anything, man. 427 00:44:00,170 --> 00:44:02,705 I just got a temperature or somethin'. 428 00:44:02,774 --> 00:44:05,340 Everybody's got a weak spot. 429 00:44:05,410 --> 00:44:07,910 help me get him to my house. 430 00:44:11,549 --> 00:44:14,750 Serena's with him. Hope it's not malaria. 431 00:44:34,004 --> 00:44:38,674 welcome travelers. Time to rock. 432 00:44:38,743 --> 00:44:42,110 Just remember, for the next 72 hours, 433 00:44:42,179 --> 00:44:45,080 We are guests in another people's land. 434 00:44:45,149 --> 00:44:49,452 So listen up. There's trash cans and port-a-potties galore. 435 00:44:49,520 --> 00:44:51,420 I need graphite too. 436 00:44:51,489 --> 00:44:54,990 So spend wisely, and if you choose to partake, 437 00:44:55,059 --> 00:44:58,761 For heaven's sakes, be discreet. 438 00:44:58,830 --> 00:45:03,599 And above all, if you hit pay dirt, share thy bounty. 439 00:45:54,085 --> 00:45:58,087 this is for you, and this is for you. 440 00:46:10,567 --> 00:46:15,104 - How come you're not over there with your friends ? - Too many people. 441 00:46:16,440 --> 00:46:18,407 I know what you mean. 442 00:46:20,077 --> 00:46:22,611 I want to show you something. 443 00:46:29,620 --> 00:46:32,654 All over the world, people are returning to their tribes. 444 00:46:33,757 --> 00:46:37,026 I don't blame them. 445 00:46:37,094 --> 00:46:41,280 Probably don't realize it, but you and your friends are part of a tribe. 446 00:46:41,349 --> 00:46:46,185 You think ? - It's a tribe built on mutual respect... 447 00:46:46,253 --> 00:46:50,289 And a common understanding of what it takes to do what we do. 448 00:46:52,893 --> 00:46:55,377 Never really thought of it that way. 449 00:46:55,446 --> 00:46:58,246 What do you think about riding waves that are too big to paddle into ? 450 00:46:58,315 --> 00:47:01,083 Do they frighten you ? - Yeah. 451 00:47:02,436 --> 00:47:04,620 What about using a jet ski to help you get in ? 452 00:47:06,307 --> 00:47:08,506 That's one way, yeah. 453 00:47:10,443 --> 00:47:14,813 Mickey thinks they can be paddled into. He hates jet skis. 454 00:47:16,117 --> 00:47:18,684 He thinks it takes the purity away. 455 00:47:18,752 --> 00:47:21,002 What do you think ? 456 00:47:22,973 --> 00:47:25,424 I haven't really made my mind up yet. 457 00:47:46,580 --> 00:47:51,667 ♪ dream through a warning sign ♪ 458 00:47:51,735 --> 00:47:54,303 It's morning. The night is over. 459 00:47:54,371 --> 00:47:59,607 ♪ numb your senses listless sleep of dreams ♪ 460 00:47:59,676 --> 00:48:02,777 Hey. You okay ? ♪♪ 461 00:48:02,846 --> 00:48:07,382 Rough night, huh ? 462 00:48:07,451 --> 00:48:10,002 The guys are out there trainin'. I gotta get out there. 463 00:48:10,070 --> 00:48:12,971 You'll be all right. They'll take care of you. 464 00:48:13,040 --> 00:48:15,340 Need anything ? 465 00:48:25,386 --> 00:48:29,621 Oh, man ! Come on, mickey. Focus. 466 00:48:29,689 --> 00:48:31,156 Focus. - I got it. 467 00:48:49,043 --> 00:48:53,178 wait for the whip. Perfect. Perfect ! 468 00:49:08,295 --> 00:49:10,262 faster ! Faster ! 469 00:49:27,982 --> 00:49:30,449 This is wrong ! 470 00:49:38,359 --> 00:49:40,325 I got it ! I got it ! 471 00:49:44,031 --> 00:49:49,301 as I watched them train today, I was filled with a certain sadness. 472 00:49:49,370 --> 00:49:54,939 so many people aspire to greatness; so few succeed. 473 00:49:55,009 --> 00:49:58,343 I could see the separation happening before my eyes. 474 00:49:58,412 --> 00:50:01,880 - Good ! - The big waves of hawaii would be waiting for them. 475 00:50:01,948 --> 00:50:04,082 A challenge to one, 476 00:50:04,151 --> 00:50:06,151 A threat to the other. 477 00:50:30,911 --> 00:50:34,046 It's gonna get worse before it gets better. 478 00:50:37,251 --> 00:50:39,684 I wish there was more i could do. 479 00:50:42,189 --> 00:50:45,123 You could talk to me. 480 00:50:45,192 --> 00:50:47,592 I like it when you talk to me. 481 00:50:49,629 --> 00:50:53,131 Did you see me out there today ? 482 00:50:53,200 --> 00:50:55,733 I heard it was brutal. 483 00:50:57,938 --> 00:51:00,638 That's my point exactly. 484 00:51:00,707 --> 00:51:04,943 Shane got it. You'll get it. 485 00:51:05,011 --> 00:51:06,945 Takes time. 486 00:51:07,013 --> 00:51:11,783 You were number two in the world, mickey. 487 00:51:11,851 --> 00:51:15,753 Yeah. I was. 488 00:51:21,661 --> 00:51:24,563 just got word from hawaii. There's a huge swell coming in. 489 00:51:24,631 --> 00:51:27,599 Huge. - We'd love to hang with you guys, but I think it's time to go. 490 00:51:27,667 --> 00:51:30,235 might only get one shot at a swell this big. 491 00:51:30,304 --> 00:51:33,338 Well, we gotta hang around, wait for the kid to get better. Only take a couple of days. 492 00:51:33,407 --> 00:51:35,673 see ya in hawaii. All right. 493 00:51:35,742 --> 00:51:37,642 We'll pick it up where we left off. - Right on. 494 00:51:37,711 --> 00:51:39,677 Hopefully, we'll get there in time for the swell. 495 00:51:39,746 --> 00:51:43,781 All right. 496 00:51:45,152 --> 00:51:48,286 Hey, take care of the kid, huh ? Yeah, no problem. 497 00:53:15,342 --> 00:53:18,710 He ain't comin' in, you know. 498 00:53:18,778 --> 00:53:21,112 I know. 499 00:53:21,181 --> 00:53:25,584 he's been preparin' to surf big waves all his life. 500 00:53:25,652 --> 00:53:28,753 But he'd never leave the kid while he was sick. 501 00:53:28,822 --> 00:53:33,157 He's got a strange way of showing his feelings. 502 00:53:33,227 --> 00:53:37,395 You'll get used to it. - Hm. 503 00:53:48,875 --> 00:53:51,309 To all my friends, good evening. 504 00:53:55,415 --> 00:54:00,017 brothers and sisters, i can't tell you how blessed we are to have you here tonight... 505 00:54:00,086 --> 00:54:03,355 At this musical carnival of ours. 506 00:54:03,423 --> 00:54:05,624 And I want you to give it up for skull. 507 00:54:08,562 --> 00:54:10,695 all the way from stockholm, sweden ! 508 00:54:14,534 --> 00:54:17,902 Whoo ! 509 00:54:29,750 --> 00:54:31,416 ♪ chaos it's a one-way ticket ♪ 510 00:54:31,485 --> 00:54:33,551 ♪ to chaos and I'll be on ♪ 511 00:54:33,620 --> 00:54:36,554 ♪ chaos it's a one-way ticket to chaos ♪ 512 00:54:36,623 --> 00:54:38,590 ♪ chaos ♪♪ 513 00:54:44,498 --> 00:54:47,999 I want to be just like you. But I don't tell you that. 514 00:54:54,408 --> 00:54:57,342 You're strong. 515 00:54:57,411 --> 00:55:00,144 Strongest man on earth. 516 00:55:17,063 --> 00:55:19,331 I said shut up ! 517 00:56:03,577 --> 00:56:06,010 Shut up ! 518 00:56:13,620 --> 00:56:16,588 leave me alone, alone, alone-- 519 00:57:06,172 --> 00:57:08,440 Why you fightin' with me ? 520 00:57:08,508 --> 00:57:10,909 Let me go. 521 00:57:15,949 --> 00:57:19,651 It's okay. You'll be okay. 522 00:57:23,323 --> 00:57:28,125 You'll be okay. It's over. 523 00:57:33,667 --> 00:57:35,800 keoni's not getting any better. 524 00:57:38,137 --> 00:57:40,672 ♪♪ I'm gonna take him home. 525 00:57:40,740 --> 00:57:42,740 Get him to a doctor. 526 00:57:43,726 --> 00:57:49,280 ♪ blow you and I away ♪ 527 00:57:49,349 --> 00:57:52,951 I knew when I came with you it wouldn't be forever. 528 00:57:55,254 --> 00:57:59,056 My father's boat's coming back through. 529 00:57:59,125 --> 00:58:03,327 I miss him. ♪ when the earth below ♪ 530 00:58:03,396 --> 00:58:09,033 ♪ shakes us from each other's arms ♪ - shane-- 531 00:58:09,102 --> 00:58:14,506 It's been a beautiful journey. ♪ I'll never forget you ♪ 532 00:58:14,574 --> 00:58:19,043 ♪ forget who you are ♪ i love you. 533 00:58:19,112 --> 00:58:24,248 ♪ I'll stay alive ♪ 534 00:58:25,451 --> 00:58:29,787 ♪ with the warmth of your breath inside ♪ 535 00:58:29,856 --> 00:58:34,826 ♪ I'll watch you fly ♪ 536 00:58:34,895 --> 00:58:39,363 ♪ wipe the tears from my eyes ♪♪ 537 00:58:57,651 --> 00:59:00,418 hawaiian national sea and weather forecast... 538 00:59:00,486 --> 00:59:04,255 For local coastal waters reporting small craft and shipping lanes stage five alert. 539 00:59:04,323 --> 00:59:06,824 Small craft warnings anticipated by 1800 hours. 540 00:59:06,893 --> 00:59:09,160 I'm ready. 541 00:59:09,228 --> 00:59:12,129 Fever's gone. Let's go ! 542 00:59:14,500 --> 00:59:16,467 My point exactly. 543 00:59:23,577 --> 00:59:26,544 small craft and shipping lanes stage five alert. 544 00:59:29,783 --> 00:59:34,018 Does serena know what I did ? With the fire and all ? 545 00:59:34,087 --> 00:59:36,520 Yeah. ♪♪ 546 00:59:38,558 --> 00:59:41,425 Was she mad ? 547 00:59:42,696 --> 00:59:44,662 No, she wasn't mad. 548 00:59:46,299 --> 00:59:49,433 I really liked her. ♪ lap up the rain ♪ 549 00:59:49,502 --> 00:59:54,872 ♪ released from all my sin ♪ 550 01:00:00,246 --> 01:00:06,250 ♪ I run you'll stay ♪ 551 01:00:06,319 --> 01:00:11,288 ♪ was all-night surfer red ♪ 552 01:00:12,726 --> 01:00:16,661 ♪ when I held you that night ♪ 553 01:00:16,730 --> 01:00:19,196 They beat us here. 554 01:00:19,265 --> 01:00:21,365 of course they did. 555 01:00:21,434 --> 01:00:24,736 You leave first, you get there first. 556 01:00:24,804 --> 01:00:28,873 ♪♪ who's that guy in the baseball cap ? 557 01:00:28,942 --> 01:00:31,876 That's the wizard. Mike stewart-- 558 01:00:31,945 --> 01:00:35,046 The only guy with guts enough to ride this place on a body board. 559 01:00:35,115 --> 01:00:37,882 He's been mappin' the reef all summer. 560 01:00:38,885 --> 01:00:41,285 It'll be here by morning. 561 01:00:45,091 --> 01:00:47,625 How big ? 562 01:00:47,694 --> 01:00:49,661 Big. 563 01:00:49,729 --> 01:00:52,196 ♪ merry, merry, merry ♪ 564 01:00:52,265 --> 01:00:55,833 ♪ a merry, merry christmas to you ♪♪ 565 01:01:39,445 --> 01:01:43,848 No hard feelings, but, uh... We took a vote. 566 01:01:43,917 --> 01:01:45,917 I'm not towing you in. 567 01:01:48,121 --> 01:01:50,221 Yeah, well, I'll be there just the same. 568 01:01:50,289 --> 01:01:52,857 I'm not towing you in. 569 01:01:52,926 --> 01:01:55,593 Yeah, I know. You voted. 570 01:01:57,630 --> 01:02:01,432 - Merry christmas, darrick. - Mele kalikimaka to you too. 571 01:02:03,502 --> 01:02:06,670 Looks like the kid's feeling better. - Yeah. 572 01:02:19,719 --> 01:02:25,623 ♪ she gave me her number and her eyes were as big as the moon ♪ 573 01:02:25,691 --> 01:02:29,727 ♪ soon I know I'm gonna be in her arms tonight ♪ 574 01:02:29,796 --> 01:02:32,429 ♪ hugging and kissing ♪♪ 575 01:02:33,800 --> 01:02:36,433 What's going on ? 576 01:02:44,878 --> 01:02:47,845 - Uuh ! - Jesus, mickey ! What the-- 577 01:02:47,914 --> 01:02:50,114 - Stay out of this ! - What the hell's wrong with you ? 578 01:02:50,183 --> 01:02:53,717 Shut up ! You've been told ! 579 01:02:55,855 --> 01:02:58,455 All right, so you ride one of those big sons of bitches tomorrow. 580 01:02:58,524 --> 01:03:00,958 Then what ? What's it gonna prove ? 581 01:03:01,027 --> 01:03:04,128 I've never tried to prove anything to anyone in my whole life. 582 01:03:04,197 --> 01:03:08,166 get out on the pro tour and make some money ! Show people how good you are ! 583 01:03:08,234 --> 01:03:10,768 Calm down. - Shut up ! 584 01:03:12,338 --> 01:03:16,007 You lose that step, man, and it's gone. 585 01:03:16,075 --> 01:03:18,509 And it ain't comin' back. 586 01:03:20,680 --> 01:03:23,247 You're gonna burn out. 587 01:03:23,316 --> 01:03:25,482 People burn out. 588 01:04:02,438 --> 01:04:05,773 I'm paddling into one of those bombs tomorrow. 589 01:04:05,841 --> 01:04:07,808 I know you are. 590 01:04:11,180 --> 01:04:14,315 I hate the stink of those goddamn jet skis. 591 01:04:14,384 --> 01:04:16,717 I know you do. 592 01:04:21,190 --> 01:04:23,391 You think I'm nuts, don't you ? 593 01:04:26,562 --> 01:04:28,529 It can be done, you know. 594 01:04:28,597 --> 01:04:32,400 I know it can. You just gotta catch it right. 595 01:04:41,010 --> 01:04:43,945 You ever gonna tell me what's on your mind ? 596 01:04:46,882 --> 01:04:49,650 You ever gonna tell anybody what's on your mind ? 597 01:04:54,090 --> 01:04:56,557 Jesus. 598 01:04:56,625 --> 01:04:59,093 I'm treatin' you like a chick. 599 01:05:09,439 --> 01:05:11,905 Line up with the palm tree on the cliff. 600 01:05:12,942 --> 01:05:15,443 Sit deep. 601 01:05:15,511 --> 01:05:20,281 The wind comin' up the face is gonna be like nothing you ever felt. 602 01:05:22,151 --> 01:05:24,151 This wave's an animal. 603 01:05:30,493 --> 01:05:33,461 imagine 50 to 60 olympic-size swimming pools... 604 01:05:33,529 --> 01:05:36,497 Converging all at once on this reef shelf here. 605 01:05:36,565 --> 01:05:39,433 It's about 30 feet deep when it initially breaks... 606 01:05:39,502 --> 01:05:41,869 And then it shallows out to about 15 feet. 607 01:05:41,937 --> 01:05:44,771 So there's a lot of intensity and force coming in all at once. 608 01:05:49,078 --> 01:05:52,113 ♪ get off of my porch ♪ 609 01:05:52,181 --> 01:05:54,281 You're up first. 610 01:05:54,350 --> 01:05:57,584 You're gonna run with it a while outside. I got the power. 611 01:05:57,653 --> 01:05:59,987 Forty, fifty miles an hour. 612 01:06:02,992 --> 01:06:07,861 I know it's gonna seem like a long time, but wait-- wait for the whip. 613 01:06:07,930 --> 01:06:09,930 Hey. Where's mickey ? 614 01:06:09,999 --> 01:06:12,199 Don't worry. He'll be here. 615 01:06:14,003 --> 01:06:16,470 ♪ I'm gonna get my pistol ♪ 616 01:06:16,539 --> 01:06:20,941 ♪ and call out the dogs ♪ 617 01:06:21,010 --> 01:06:24,445 ♪ I'm gonna get my razor ♪ 618 01:06:24,514 --> 01:06:28,049 ♪ and feed you to the hogs ♪ 619 01:06:28,117 --> 01:06:30,817 the wave generally comes in at a northwest direction, 620 01:06:30,886 --> 01:06:32,886 Maybe 350 degrees on the compass. 621 01:06:32,955 --> 01:06:35,689 The waves surge over the shelf towards the beach. 622 01:06:35,758 --> 01:06:40,827 So if you can make it past the initial intensity of that impact, 623 01:06:40,896 --> 01:06:43,397 The rest of this current should take you over to the channel. 624 01:06:43,466 --> 01:06:46,500 But you're gonna have to hold your breath for a good 80 yards underwater. 625 01:06:46,569 --> 01:06:49,403 So we're gonna be in the mach ten express ? Mach ten express. 626 01:07:11,494 --> 01:07:15,563 If the guy wipes out on the inside corner and gets dragged underwater to the inside, 627 01:07:15,631 --> 01:07:18,365 He's gonna get spit out along the shoreline here... 628 01:07:18,434 --> 01:07:20,867 Because the current comes in parallel with the beach. 629 01:07:20,936 --> 01:07:23,404 So watch here if you do get caught in that inside section... 630 01:07:23,473 --> 01:07:26,373 Because it can wash you onto the rocks. 631 01:07:57,607 --> 01:08:00,407 ♪ I'm not goin' down ♪ 632 01:08:00,476 --> 01:08:02,943 ♪ so easy ♪ 633 01:08:09,552 --> 01:08:13,187 what's mickey doing out here ? How'd he get out here ? 634 01:08:13,256 --> 01:08:16,823 Okay, guys. You gotta make sure he stays out of the way. Over. 635 01:08:26,802 --> 01:08:28,969 Shane's up ! Shane's up ! 636 01:10:24,387 --> 01:10:29,790 I'll be taking off on a 30-foot wave, impacting the water at such speed, 637 01:10:29,858 --> 01:10:33,927 And hitting the bottom, which is about 40 feet deep... 638 01:10:33,996 --> 01:10:35,996 On jagged coral. 639 01:10:48,844 --> 01:10:51,545 Then hoping you survive if you're getting carried all the way in. 640 01:10:51,614 --> 01:10:53,614 It's possible. 641 01:11:39,328 --> 01:11:41,995 When I was pinned to the bottom-- i jumped off the bottom. 642 01:11:42,064 --> 01:11:44,565 I couldn't get up. It pinned me back down. 643 01:11:44,633 --> 01:11:49,803 I started counting. I got to 21 seconds before i pushed off the bottom again. 644 01:11:49,872 --> 01:11:54,541 Fortunately, i saw a blue spot, and i went through and I made it. 645 01:13:10,786 --> 01:13:13,620 man down, man down ! Team one, team one. 646 01:13:20,329 --> 01:13:23,764 - Go, go ! Do something ! - mayday ! We got a man down ! 647 01:14:26,562 --> 01:14:29,429 okay, we got a visual. Let's go. 648 01:14:29,498 --> 01:14:32,232 High speed, boys. High-speed pickup. Over. 649 01:14:33,669 --> 01:14:36,136 okay, wilford's got him. He's on board. 650 01:14:36,204 --> 01:14:38,972 okay, boys, vacate. Go back out in the channel. 651 01:14:46,549 --> 01:14:48,882 - what do you wanna do ? - go again. 652 01:14:48,951 --> 01:14:51,552 You sure ? - I'm sure. 653 01:15:19,281 --> 01:15:22,749 ♪ when you see me in the cage ♪ 654 01:15:22,818 --> 01:15:27,087 ♪ you'll seek you'll never find me in a rage ♪ 655 01:15:53,616 --> 01:15:55,616 ♪ I don't care ♪ 656 01:16:02,691 --> 01:16:04,691 ♪ I don't care ♪ 657 01:16:11,433 --> 01:16:13,433 ♪ I don't care ♪♪ 658 01:16:27,049 --> 01:16:30,183 That has to be the biggest wave i ever saw in my whole life ! 659 01:17:14,629 --> 01:17:16,997 You're up. 660 01:17:17,066 --> 01:17:19,966 Grab the rope. I'll tow you in. 661 01:17:24,506 --> 01:17:26,506 I can't. 662 01:17:27,976 --> 01:17:29,976 I'm scared, man. 663 01:17:31,646 --> 01:17:34,447 Everybody's scared. 664 01:17:34,516 --> 01:17:36,516 I'm really scared. 665 01:17:58,273 --> 01:18:00,440 What do you wanna do ? 666 01:18:07,716 --> 01:18:10,951 How am I ever gonna face that kid again ? 667 01:18:12,454 --> 01:18:15,088 How am I ever gonna face anybody again ? 668 01:18:16,691 --> 01:18:21,294 It doesn't matter. You just had a bad day. Let it go. 669 01:18:24,867 --> 01:18:27,600 Go tell the kid I'm cool-- 670 01:18:27,669 --> 01:18:30,170 That I'm just waiting for the right one. 671 01:18:33,041 --> 01:18:35,242 I know you are, mickey. 672 01:18:38,380 --> 01:18:40,513 It can be done, you know. 673 01:18:40,582 --> 01:18:42,883 You can paddle into these waves. 674 01:18:43,919 --> 01:18:46,452 You could do it. 675 01:18:47,489 --> 01:18:50,356 ♪ I'm waiting now ♪ 676 01:18:51,827 --> 01:18:54,828 ♪ awaiting rebirth ♪ 677 01:18:55,864 --> 01:18:59,299 ♪ craving it in the darkness ♪ 678 01:19:01,170 --> 01:19:03,536 ♪ ooh-ooh-ooh-ooh ♪ 679 01:19:03,605 --> 01:19:06,306 What the hell's going on out there ? 680 01:19:06,374 --> 01:19:09,242 - He said he's just waiting for the right one. - ♪ beautiful ♪ 681 01:19:09,311 --> 01:19:11,311 ♪ here ♪ 682 01:19:21,890 --> 01:19:24,291 ♪ breathing in god ♪ 683 01:19:25,694 --> 01:19:28,895 ♪ breathing in love ♪ 684 01:19:38,673 --> 01:19:41,174 Jesus, mary and joseph. 685 01:19:41,243 --> 01:19:44,978 ♪ it's beautiful here ♪ 686 01:19:46,481 --> 01:19:51,985 - ♪ there is safety right here ♪ - mickey ! 687 01:19:54,489 --> 01:19:56,923 ♪ here ♪ 688 01:19:56,992 --> 01:19:59,192 ♪ wonderful ♪ 689 01:19:59,261 --> 01:20:01,928 ♪ seek care ♪ 690 01:20:02,998 --> 01:20:07,100 ♪ you ♪ 691 01:20:11,240 --> 01:20:14,841 ♪ feeling shame ♪ 692 01:20:34,629 --> 01:20:37,563 ♪ I'm born with you ♪ 693 01:20:37,632 --> 01:20:42,369 ♪ here, the shame ♪ 694 01:20:45,640 --> 01:20:49,042 Mickey, no ! Come on ! 695 01:20:49,111 --> 01:20:51,477 We got a man down. Go ! Do something ! 696 01:21:08,997 --> 01:21:11,965 Get him ! Go ! Go, go ! Get him ! 697 01:21:22,277 --> 01:21:24,777 ♪ I have desire ♪ 698 01:21:24,846 --> 01:21:27,780 ♪ for the world ♪ 699 01:21:29,517 --> 01:21:32,785 ♪ and I have desire ♪ 700 01:21:32,854 --> 01:21:34,821 ♪ for you ♪ 701 01:21:36,791 --> 01:21:38,891 He's not comin' up ! 702 01:21:38,961 --> 01:21:43,096 ♪ what will I think of this world ♪ 703 01:21:46,301 --> 01:21:50,003 ♪ what will I do in this world ♪ 704 01:21:53,342 --> 01:21:58,945 ♪ will I be afraid of this world ♪♪ 705 01:23:41,749 --> 01:23:46,519 ♪ in a crowded world you leave an empty house ♪ 706 01:23:46,588 --> 01:23:50,323 ♪ I see you're lonely so leave me alone ♪ 707 01:23:50,392 --> 01:23:52,392 ♪ leave me alone ♪♪ 708 01:24:34,068 --> 01:24:37,303 The big waves of hawaii. 709 01:24:40,675 --> 01:24:43,943 Until we ride, we're just men... 710 01:24:44,012 --> 01:24:46,513 Waiting for a train. 711 01:25:25,086 --> 01:25:27,453 Mickey was right, you know. 712 01:25:27,522 --> 01:25:30,390 I hate the sound of those damn jet skis. 713 01:25:33,428 --> 01:25:35,861 Me too. 714 01:25:52,314 --> 01:25:54,947 My son ! Hi ! 715 01:25:55,016 --> 01:25:57,016 I love you, keoni. 716 01:26:05,594 --> 01:26:08,194 I'm so sorry, mrs. Mccormick. 717 01:26:09,564 --> 01:26:11,497 I'm so sorry. 718 01:27:13,461 --> 01:27:16,562 What would you say if I told you... 719 01:27:16,631 --> 01:27:19,432 That there's a wave out there, 720 01:27:19,501 --> 01:27:22,702 And by the time it hits this little island off of mexico... 721 01:27:22,771 --> 01:27:25,104 It's gonna be massive, 722 01:27:25,173 --> 01:27:28,741 And all I can think about is riding it ? 723 01:27:30,011 --> 01:27:31,977 Then what ? 724 01:27:34,549 --> 01:27:36,482 My point exactly. 725 01:27:36,551 --> 01:27:39,319 what's so funny ? 726 01:27:41,790 --> 01:27:44,791 You ever had one of those friends where it doesn't even matter-- 727 01:27:44,859 --> 01:27:48,994 All you gotta do is just think about him and you smile ? 728 01:27:50,799 --> 01:27:52,799 No. 729 01:27:56,805 --> 01:27:58,771 That's too bad. 730 01:28:00,174 --> 01:28:04,544 ♪ every chain ♪ 731 01:28:04,612 --> 01:28:06,746 ♪ today ♪ 732 01:28:07,782 --> 01:28:11,484 ♪ so I stay ♪ 733 01:28:17,759 --> 01:28:20,259 ♪ vow never ♪ 734 01:28:20,328 --> 01:28:23,730 ♪ ever again ♪ 735 01:28:30,137 --> 01:28:34,640 ♪ come on dive right in ♪ 736 01:28:34,709 --> 01:28:37,810 ♪ dive again ♪ 737 01:28:37,879 --> 01:28:42,181 ♪ my old friend ♪ 738 01:28:43,251 --> 01:28:48,354 ♪ your love will let you in ♪ 739 01:28:49,391 --> 01:28:51,957 ♪ but until ♪ 740 01:28:52,026 --> 01:28:56,863 ♪ the light ♪ 741 01:29:01,469 --> 01:29:06,472 ♪ it glows forever ♪ 742 01:29:06,541 --> 01:29:12,412 ♪ I will be there too ♪♪ 743 01:30:20,114 --> 01:30:22,949 Muy peligroso. 744 01:30:30,424 --> 01:30:32,424 Gracias. 745 01:32:44,258 --> 01:32:46,391 so you wanna surf. 746 01:32:46,460 --> 01:32:50,896 And the waves near the town where you live aren't half bad. 747 01:32:52,800 --> 01:32:55,835 And then you hear about this wave... 748 01:32:55,903 --> 01:32:58,203 In a faraway country... 749 01:32:58,272 --> 01:33:00,472 With a name you can't even pronounce. 750 01:33:00,541 --> 01:33:02,441 What then ? 751 01:33:04,078 --> 01:33:07,013 How far are you willing to go ? 752 01:33:07,081 --> 01:33:10,016 What sacrifice are you willing to make ? 753 01:33:11,185 --> 01:33:14,186 How good do you really wanna be ? 754 01:33:14,255 --> 01:33:18,157 Closed-captioned by captions, inc. Los angeles 755 01:33:18,225 --> 01:33:23,562 ♪ heaven ♪ 756 01:33:23,631 --> 01:33:29,135 ♪ savior of the whole world ♪ 757 01:33:29,203 --> 01:33:35,374 ♪ heaven ♪ 758 01:33:35,442 --> 01:33:37,509 ♪ love can make it ♪ 759 01:33:37,578 --> 01:33:42,548 ♪ love can take it in ♪ 760 01:34:02,403 --> 01:34:05,971 ♪ new moon in your star way ♪ 761 01:34:07,558 --> 01:34:11,260 ♪ it's to light your way ♪ 762 01:34:13,631 --> 01:34:17,933 ♪ you won't see the starlight ♪ 763 01:34:18,002 --> 01:34:24,006 ♪ you won't see the stars bright ♪ 764 01:34:24,074 --> 01:34:28,677 ♪ it's a brand-new day ♪ ♪ heaven ♪ 765 01:34:28,746 --> 01:34:32,748 ♪ it's a brand-new day ♪ ♪ it's a brand-new day ♪ 766 01:34:36,287 --> 01:34:40,922 ♪ heaven ♪ 767 01:34:41,992 --> 01:34:48,063 ♪ sing all over the whole world ♪ 768 01:35:33,544 --> 01:35:37,979 ♪ it's a brand-new day ♪ ♪ heaven ♪ 769 01:35:38,048 --> 01:35:42,284 ♪ you believe in me ♪ 770 01:35:44,154 --> 01:35:49,458 ♪ it's a brand-new day ♪ ♪ heaven ♪ 771 01:35:49,527 --> 01:35:53,395 ♪ you believe in me ♪ 772 01:35:56,601 --> 01:36:00,336 ♪ it's a brand-new day ♪ ♪ heaven ♪ 773 01:36:00,404 --> 01:36:04,540 ♪ it's a brand-new day ♪ ♪ it's a brand-new day ♪ 774 01:36:07,177 --> 01:36:12,080 ♪ it's a brand-new day ♪ ♪ heaven ♪ 775 01:36:12,149 --> 01:36:15,851 ♪ it's a brand-new day ♪ ♪ it's a brand-new day ♪ 776 01:36:19,223 --> 01:36:23,359 ♪ it's a brand-new day ♪ ♪ heaven ♪ 777 01:36:29,367 --> 01:36:33,935 ♪ it's a brand-new day ♪ ♪ heaven ♪ 778 01:36:34,004 --> 01:36:38,741 ♪ you believe in me ♪ 779 01:36:40,611 --> 01:36:44,946 ♪ it's a brand-new day ♪ ♪ heaven ♪ 780 01:36:51,589 --> 01:36:56,759 ♪ it's a brand-new day ♪ ♪ heaven ♪ 781 01:37:02,833 --> 01:37:07,303 ♪ it's a brand-new day ♪ ♪ heaven ♪ 782 01:37:07,371 --> 01:37:11,607 ♪ you believe in me ♪ 783 01:37:13,944 --> 01:37:18,580 ♪ it's a brand-new day ♪ ♪ heaven ♪ 784 01:37:18,649 --> 01:37:23,185 ♪ you believe in me ♪ 785 01:37:24,722 --> 01:37:29,525 ♪ it's a brand-new day ♪ ♪ heaven ♪ 786 01:37:29,593 --> 01:37:35,163 ♪ it's a brand-new day ♪♪